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m. and we hit a submerged log that knocked out the engine and caused a surge of water to crash over the bow And I was most blown away by the beauty of the earth when I crested a divide in the Alaska Range and looked out over a corrugated landscape of rock and ice that had turned freakishly red in the sunlit smoke of a distant tundra fire
There's no need to be intimidated by such tales Believe it or not you can ease into Alaska The first step is to name your desire Start with something specific: You want to gawk upward at Denali North America's highest peak; or you want to watch beluga whales gorge on migrating salmon during the high tide in Turnagain Arm near Anchorage; or you want to hear the eerie catlike meow of a rutting moose on the Kenai Peninsula
From there one thing will lead to another A few years ago I went on a fishing trip to Prince of Wales Island in Southeast Alaska The labyrinthine coasts of the islands and fjords continued to haunt my imagination when I got home Before I could return I'd become the proud owner of a cabin on the island It sits on pilings over the confluence of a mountain stream and the ocean It is accessible only by boat or floatplane The creek has a salmon run Needless to say: If you start talking to me about cabins you can see where the discussion will lead
Steven Rinella Denali National Park and Preserve Skiers on Denali The Sell: Climbing the tall one; hiking in solitudeRumor has it that on an Alaska Airlines flyby of 20320-foot Denali one Texas passenger asked a flight attendant why the mountain had superhighways leading up to it The glacial moraines do look a little like an interstate on the massive peak which dwarfs all others in the 600-mile Alaska Range But there's a lot more to this six-million-acre park than a big hunk of granite It's one of the only spots in the world where you can ride a bus get off hike a few miles in and have a 20-square-mile swath of wilderness to yourself Few cars are allowed on the single 91-mile gravel artery so campers and mountaineers have to hoof it bike it or watch the rutting moose from the comfort of the bus
Outfitted: On Rainier Mountaineering's ten-day entry-level Alaska Seminar there's a three-to-one client-to-guide ratio ensuring that you'll always have an expert on hand to help you with the basics of mountaineering: knot tying crevasse rescue ice climbing route finding and deciphering big-mountain weather Complete this mid-May course on Denali's Kahiltna Glacier and you'll be prepared for a guided summit bid ($2400)
DIY: Denali has six designated campgrounds along the park road most of which you can reserve in advance ($9 per night) For backcountry campers there are no designated sites and no advance reservations Just show up at the Backcountry Information Center at the park's north entrance and a ranger will help you plot your course give you a free permit assign you a bear container and give you the mandatory safety talk about food storage river crossings and how to avoid hypothermia ($10 park entrance fee per person) If hot meals and a bed sound better reserve a cabin at Camp Denali Built in 1951 and sitting on 67 acres with views to 11 major peaks in the Alaska Range Camp Denali predates the existing park The 18 hand-built cabins with homemade quilts fireplaces and meticulously kept outhouses are like a Hollywood version of frontier life Hike with one of the expert naturalists borrow one of the camp's bikes and ride the park road or wet your fly line in a pretty creek Wind down with a meal from the camp's organic greenhouse and on-site bakery (three nights $1515)
Wild Card: It's technically south of the park but if you want a blowout high-alpine adventure in sight of Denali head to Tordrillo Mountain Lodge Customize all sorts of adventure using this luxurious lodge on the shores of Judd Lake as your base camp: Heli-fish for trophy trout heli-hike near active volcanoes climb granite crags or paddleboard among icebergs near Strandline Glacier ($1300 for two days/one night including internal air from Anchorage; plus guided activity fees) Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve Photo: Courtesy of Carl Stapler/NPS The Sell: Paddling the frontier Jack London the 1880s Klondike gold rush the Yukon Quest dogsled racefew wild spaces hold more historical cachet than this wide-open undulating 25-millon-acre hunk of tundra 125 miles east of Fairbanks In August when the mosquitoes die off and the temperatures drop from 90-degree highs the mighty Yukon River (which is a relatively easy float as long as you stay upright in your canoe) turns into an Alaska-style freeway History and river buffs paddle the silty 50-degree water from the historic town of Eagle to see abandoned gold dredges endangered peregrine falcons in the limestone bluffs and caribou from the Fortymile herd on the hillside
Outfitted: You're in for a wild ride on the Charley the most under-the-radar whitewater trip in Alaskait's so off the map that this Yukon-tributary river
